I'm nearly out of internet time, but here are some of the things from this week:
- Jeffrey and I took 2 taxis and about 12 hrs to get up Fort Portal on the western side of Uganda. On the way, the road passes through Queen Elizabeth Nat. Park so we got a free bit of animal viewing (elephants!) as the sun set over the Rwenzori Mountains. It was ridiculously picturesque.
- We hitched 2 rides and walked a bunch and finally reached the Lake Nkuruba Community Campsite, where we stayed in a little banda (round cabin thing) at the edge of a crater lake. The lake was beautiful and hidden amongst a jungle of trees and vines. We saw 3 types of monkeys around the camp and jeffrey blew out the camera batteries trying to get video of them.
- We met up with a couple that recognized Jeffrey's Common Ground shirt as a Maine thing and we proceeded to find out that they are a strange mirror image of us: she majored in ceramics, he's into agriculture. They both know Brunswick well and they just sold their house a few miles from Goucher. Very strange, we liked them a lot, obviously.
- We hiked through the mountains and saw a number of other crater lakes, as well as about a million kids asking us for money, sweets, pens or books.
- Today we hitched back to Fort Portal in the back of a matooke (plaintain) truck. We had a few unscheduled stops (matooke delivery, cassava drop-off, tea plantation detour, police pull-over, etc).
- Tommorow we head for the park to try to see some animals!
out of time! love you all!
Thursday, June 11
Wednesday, June 3
On the Road
Jeffrey finally arrived in Uganda on the 25th of May, so we are traveling like crazy until we head home the first week of July. Our internet access has been spotty, so I apologize (again) for the randomness of this blog.
Last week we headed from Entebbe to the Ssese Islands in Lake Victoria. There is actually a ferry that runs at set times and with set numbers of passengers, somewhat unheard of. We spent 2 nights at a campsite run by a crazy german couple. I think they were both either drunk, high or both the whole time. Very interesting people though, and friendly. Getting off the islands turned out to be quite the "adventure," as we decided not to take the ferry back, but to get off on the other side of the island using the public transportation. Not the best idea we've had. We first took a boda-boda (motorcycle) to a tiny town. Unfortunately it kept dying as we went up hills so Jeffrey and I would walk for a bit and then get back on with all of our bags. In all of this on and off-ness, I managed to burn my leg on the muffler of the boda, which was also not the best in that there wasn't anything to ice it with for miles. So I sucked it up, not much else to do.
From the boda, we took a matatu taxi to the other side of the island. This thing was probably the worst vehicle I've been in so far. I could see the road through a crack in the floor, exhaust poured in through the back windows, there were strange burn marks on the roof over my head and the sliding side door was either jammed shut or flying open when we hit bumps, which happened frequently.
We arrived at the other port of the island, only to find that the vehicle ferry wasn't running that day and we would have to hire a lake taxi. Long story short, it was an Ali/Jeffrey Rip-Off-Fest for all of the people there, and we both were pretty soured on the whole experience. We finally managed to take a boat across to the mainland and then a small car with 6 other people over to Masaka. It was a long and exasperating day.
From there we headed to our current location in the very southwest of the country, a few miles from Rwanda. (hitched a ride with 2 Ugandans who had a dvd player in their car and we all watched that terrible Tom Hanks movie, The Terminal...a bit surreal) I won't fill in all the details, this is getting long. But we are staying in Lake Bunyoni, which is amazingly beautiful and lovely. We will be here for a few days more before heading up the western edge of Uganda. Meanwhile, just imagine us paddling our canoe made out of a giant tree around a picturesque lake and eating pineapple and mangos that we got for a few cents.
Last week we headed from Entebbe to the Ssese Islands in Lake Victoria. There is actually a ferry that runs at set times and with set numbers of passengers, somewhat unheard of. We spent 2 nights at a campsite run by a crazy german couple. I think they were both either drunk, high or both the whole time. Very interesting people though, and friendly. Getting off the islands turned out to be quite the "adventure," as we decided not to take the ferry back, but to get off on the other side of the island using the public transportation. Not the best idea we've had. We first took a boda-boda (motorcycle) to a tiny town. Unfortunately it kept dying as we went up hills so Jeffrey and I would walk for a bit and then get back on with all of our bags. In all of this on and off-ness, I managed to burn my leg on the muffler of the boda, which was also not the best in that there wasn't anything to ice it with for miles. So I sucked it up, not much else to do.
From the boda, we took a matatu taxi to the other side of the island. This thing was probably the worst vehicle I've been in so far. I could see the road through a crack in the floor, exhaust poured in through the back windows, there were strange burn marks on the roof over my head and the sliding side door was either jammed shut or flying open when we hit bumps, which happened frequently.
We arrived at the other port of the island, only to find that the vehicle ferry wasn't running that day and we would have to hire a lake taxi. Long story short, it was an Ali/Jeffrey Rip-Off-Fest for all of the people there, and we both were pretty soured on the whole experience. We finally managed to take a boat across to the mainland and then a small car with 6 other people over to Masaka. It was a long and exasperating day.
From there we headed to our current location in the very southwest of the country, a few miles from Rwanda. (hitched a ride with 2 Ugandans who had a dvd player in their car and we all watched that terrible Tom Hanks movie, The Terminal...a bit surreal) I won't fill in all the details, this is getting long. But we are staying in Lake Bunyoni, which is amazingly beautiful and lovely. We will be here for a few days more before heading up the western edge of Uganda. Meanwhile, just imagine us paddling our canoe made out of a giant tree around a picturesque lake and eating pineapple and mangos that we got for a few cents.
Sunday, May 17
My Dear Mukeesa
Things are not so good here in Kyetume, in fact, I feel pretty disheartened with humans right now. Mukeesa is one of the dogs that lives at our house, my favorite dog at that. He's kinda ugly and pretty scrappy and extremely dirty. But I like that about him. Two nights ago he apparently killed 6 chickens. Yesterday morning I woke up to the sound of someone beating him and him screaming. They were hitting him with a giant stick. We finally managed to get them to stop. But the witch-hunt was on--- all of the highschool kids that showed up during the day were told what he did and they all wanted to beat him. Scott found a bunch of boys that had trapped Mukeesa next to a woodpile and were attacking him with sticks Lord of the Flies style. He finally managed to get them to leave, but it wasn't easy. Mukeesa was terrified, he wedged himself under some sticks and wouldn't come out. By the time I found him I didn't think he was in very good shape, he seemed really hurt and could barely move. He did manage to come out after a while, Scott and I tied him up and hung out with him all afternoon.
I've never had to see animals beaten. And I guess that makes me lucky. But what happened yesterday will go down in my mind as a lasting memory, as something that powerfully turned my stomach and confused my heart. Everyone seemed to take such pleasure in beating him, there was lots of laughing and smiling. I don't know what would have happened had Scott and I not been here, everyone knew how upset we were about it, but I suppose they just added it to the list of what makes us ridiculous. We could come to no understanding with our volunteer coordinator (the first person to attack him in the morning) about how we felt and why.
At this point, Mukeesa's future is uncertain. we have him tied up now, which he hates and we are going to try to find another home for him. He is a sweet dog, despite the life that he's lived here. It's heartbreaking to see the way he cowers away from everyone now. I would bring him home if I could.
I've never had to see animals beaten. And I guess that makes me lucky. But what happened yesterday will go down in my mind as a lasting memory, as something that powerfully turned my stomach and confused my heart. Everyone seemed to take such pleasure in beating him, there was lots of laughing and smiling. I don't know what would have happened had Scott and I not been here, everyone knew how upset we were about it, but I suppose they just added it to the list of what makes us ridiculous. We could come to no understanding with our volunteer coordinator (the first person to attack him in the morning) about how we felt and why.
At this point, Mukeesa's future is uncertain. we have him tied up now, which he hates and we are going to try to find another home for him. He is a sweet dog, despite the life that he's lived here. It's heartbreaking to see the way he cowers away from everyone now. I would bring him home if I could.
Thursday, May 14
Randomness Time
My time here at URF is winding down, I've meant to add so much more to this blog, but each time I get ready to work on it, the internet seems to be down or occupied or too slow...Oh well.
Here's some of the stuff that's happened in the last few weeks:
- I ate my first salad since I've been here, my first veggies really
- I had a bagel and milkshake in Kampala, deliciously awesome
- I went dancing at a nightclub (is Ali really writing this blog?) The most entertaining part of the night was watching the Ugandans watching themselves dance in the mirrors lining one wall.
- We constructed a raised bed veggie garden at one of our student's houses. It has yet to be planted, but that should happen next week sometime
- I've been teaching English and Computer during the Holiday After-School Program. Both are frustratingly difficult to teach due to lack of resources and crappy computers. I tell myself that any time that the kids get to use a computer will be helpful to them in the long run, the nearest computers outside of our school are an hour's drive away, not doable for the vast majority of kids here.
- I've been painting the school "library." It's been my pet project and is almost finished.
- Engineers Without Borders has hired a company to drill a borehole next to the school. Once complete, water will be pumped directly inside from it and possibly come out of a tap. Right now there is a large rainwater catchment system in place.
- The workmen from the drilling company have been told to sleep in the library, thereby halting all of my work there.
- I got a package from Jeffrey stuffed with Swedish Fish, candy bars, tea, etc. It only took 2 months to get here.
- Biting safari ants took over the house for a couple of days, marching in a thick line through the living room and hallway. We dealt with them by flicking paraffin all over the floor and rug with an old broom. Not what I would have done, but I've very little safari ant experience.
- A feisty chicken took to entering the house whenever possible. She was discovered in Scott's room and proceeded to scwak and flap around in there for a while. We named her Aida and she continues to cluck through the house sometimes.
That's a random assortment of what's been happening here. I'm sorry it's not more exciting. And that there are no pictures. They take quite a long time.
Here's some of the stuff that's happened in the last few weeks:
- I ate my first salad since I've been here, my first veggies really
- I had a bagel and milkshake in Kampala, deliciously awesome
- I went dancing at a nightclub (is Ali really writing this blog?) The most entertaining part of the night was watching the Ugandans watching themselves dance in the mirrors lining one wall.
- We constructed a raised bed veggie garden at one of our student's houses. It has yet to be planted, but that should happen next week sometime
- I've been teaching English and Computer during the Holiday After-School Program. Both are frustratingly difficult to teach due to lack of resources and crappy computers. I tell myself that any time that the kids get to use a computer will be helpful to them in the long run, the nearest computers outside of our school are an hour's drive away, not doable for the vast majority of kids here.
- I've been painting the school "library." It's been my pet project and is almost finished.
- Engineers Without Borders has hired a company to drill a borehole next to the school. Once complete, water will be pumped directly inside from it and possibly come out of a tap. Right now there is a large rainwater catchment system in place.
- The workmen from the drilling company have been told to sleep in the library, thereby halting all of my work there.
- I got a package from Jeffrey stuffed with Swedish Fish, candy bars, tea, etc. It only took 2 months to get here.
- Biting safari ants took over the house for a couple of days, marching in a thick line through the living room and hallway. We dealt with them by flicking paraffin all over the floor and rug with an old broom. Not what I would have done, but I've very little safari ant experience.
- A feisty chicken took to entering the house whenever possible. She was discovered in Scott's room and proceeded to scwak and flap around in there for a while. We named her Aida and she continues to cluck through the house sometimes.
That's a random assortment of what's been happening here. I'm sorry it's not more exciting. And that there are no pictures. They take quite a long time.
Friday, April 24
A Week of Life and Death
This week has been a strange one, even by Ugandan standards. On Wednesday we went to the Rakai District, which is just over an hour away. We work with a number of families in the area, helping them with basic needs like mattresses, soap, pots and pans, etc., and so we try to visit the area every month or so.
On our way however, we were stopped at a police checkpoint. There are checkpoints all over the place in Uganda, where cars are stopped seemingly randomly, though I would assume that many taxi drivers have some sort of bribery agreement that lets them through. The police asked Adrian, the owner and driver of the car to get out and proceeded to take his license. We waited in the car, wondering why this checkpoint wasn't going quite as smoothly as hoped, we had an adequate number of seats per butt and the car was, on a whole, very nice. We got away with a 50,000 shilling (25$) fine after they first tried to pry off the license plates (unsuccessfully) and stared into the car for a while with their AK-47's (everyone seems to have those here). The fine was for having unsafe tires, which was completely made up.
So, we were on our way, cursing the extreme, blatant corruption of the Ugandan system. We arrived in the village and set out on foot down a muddy road to reach some of the other families. 15 minutes into it, we came upon a pig tied to a tree by the leg. A man came out as we walked by wielding a machete in one hand and grabbed the pig's ear. I quickly realized what was happening and turned my head and walked as fast as possible past the scene. I know that this pig lived and died a better life than the vast majority of pigs at home, but this was little comfort to me as I heard the thwacks and squeals. The pig butchering cast somewhat of a shadow on the rest of our walk. By the time we passed back by the area an hour or so later, he had been reduced to chunks and was being cooked over the fire.
We headed home feeling sour and jaded. I think we were all wondering exactly what we are doing here and to what end. We headed to bed after a depressing conversation about mob "justice" in Uganda.
This blog says that it's about life and death, and so far I have only covered the death part of that statement. The life side of things is this:
I woke up Friday morning and Scott, another volunteer, told me to come outside to see something. Praying that it wasn't anything beaten, dead or bloody I followed. The beautiful cow who lives next door had given birth during the night to a lovely little calf. He was only a few hours old and wobbly on his legs, but he looked healthy and happy, if not a little worried. I would be too.
This morning I was standing outside brushing my teeth when I noticed an unfamiliar black goat among the herd. A new baby bumbling around!
We have been watching this mom and baby closely as he didn't nurse for quite a while and his mother seemed utterly confused about what to do, maybe a bit aloof. Another volunteer and I ended up wetting the baby's appetite with a fingerful of milk on his gums and he has been attempting to nurse ever since. His mother still seems a little frigid, but I think they will be ok.
On our way however, we were stopped at a police checkpoint. There are checkpoints all over the place in Uganda, where cars are stopped seemingly randomly, though I would assume that many taxi drivers have some sort of bribery agreement that lets them through. The police asked Adrian, the owner and driver of the car to get out and proceeded to take his license. We waited in the car, wondering why this checkpoint wasn't going quite as smoothly as hoped, we had an adequate number of seats per butt and the car was, on a whole, very nice. We got away with a 50,000 shilling (25$) fine after they first tried to pry off the license plates (unsuccessfully) and stared into the car for a while with their AK-47's (everyone seems to have those here). The fine was for having unsafe tires, which was completely made up.
So, we were on our way, cursing the extreme, blatant corruption of the Ugandan system. We arrived in the village and set out on foot down a muddy road to reach some of the other families. 15 minutes into it, we came upon a pig tied to a tree by the leg. A man came out as we walked by wielding a machete in one hand and grabbed the pig's ear. I quickly realized what was happening and turned my head and walked as fast as possible past the scene. I know that this pig lived and died a better life than the vast majority of pigs at home, but this was little comfort to me as I heard the thwacks and squeals. The pig butchering cast somewhat of a shadow on the rest of our walk. By the time we passed back by the area an hour or so later, he had been reduced to chunks and was being cooked over the fire.
We headed home feeling sour and jaded. I think we were all wondering exactly what we are doing here and to what end. We headed to bed after a depressing conversation about mob "justice" in Uganda.
This blog says that it's about life and death, and so far I have only covered the death part of that statement. The life side of things is this:
I woke up Friday morning and Scott, another volunteer, told me to come outside to see something. Praying that it wasn't anything beaten, dead or bloody I followed. The beautiful cow who lives next door had given birth during the night to a lovely little calf. He was only a few hours old and wobbly on his legs, but he looked healthy and happy, if not a little worried. I would be too.
This morning I was standing outside brushing my teeth when I noticed an unfamiliar black goat among the herd. A new baby bumbling around!
We have been watching this mom and baby closely as he didn't nurse for quite a while and his mother seemed utterly confused about what to do, maybe a bit aloof. Another volunteer and I ended up wetting the baby's appetite with a fingerful of milk on his gums and he has been attempting to nurse ever since. His mother still seems a little frigid, but I think they will be ok.
Tuesday, April 14
Public Transport
I just felt that this was necessarily the next blog that I write, due to the number of ridiculous rides that I've had in Uganda in the last couple of weeks. Most of the time here, we get around using public transportation, which consists of "taxis" ---minibuses, "shared taxis" ----sedans usually containing 6-11 people, or buses. Also, let me just say that I am fairly ok with the amount of person-cramming that goes on in african taxis and buses, it's all part of the experience.
However...there are times when I just can't get over the crazy situation that I've found myself in.
In the last two weeks riding in small, 5-person sedans I have:
- sat in the front seat with 2 other people
- bribed the cops (well, not me personally)
- sat in the back with 6 other adults and 1 child
- sat on a man's lap for 45 minutes in the back with my head against the roof with 6 other people
- run out of gas in the night and waited in the dark on side of the road for the driver to return
- pushed the car backward
- pushed the car forward
- and broken down twice
So I'm trying to tone down the number of times that I ride in this type of taxi, it's simply not comfortable to ride in the back of a small car with 6 other people, especially over the potholes. I suppose it's a good cultural learning experience (the first few times). Americans enjoy quite a large bubble of personal space, and it pops as soon as you land in Uganda. In the meantime I think I will use the lesser-crowded minibus taxis, where they (so far) have not made me sit on a strange man's lap.
However...there are times when I just can't get over the crazy situation that I've found myself in.
In the last two weeks riding in small, 5-person sedans I have:
- sat in the front seat with 2 other people
- bribed the cops (well, not me personally)
- sat in the back with 6 other adults and 1 child
- sat on a man's lap for 45 minutes in the back with my head against the roof with 6 other people
- run out of gas in the night and waited in the dark on side of the road for the driver to return
- pushed the car backward
- pushed the car forward
- and broken down twice
So I'm trying to tone down the number of times that I ride in this type of taxi, it's simply not comfortable to ride in the back of a small car with 6 other people, especially over the potholes. I suppose it's a good cultural learning experience (the first few times). Americans enjoy quite a large bubble of personal space, and it pops as soon as you land in Uganda. In the meantime I think I will use the lesser-crowded minibus taxis, where they (so far) have not made me sit on a strange man's lap.
Thursday, April 2
Dancing and Drumming
Here is some video that I took during dance practice a couple of weeks ago. They are in the front yard of the house where I stay. The kids do drumming and dancing every week as part of their after-school activities. This time however they were practicing for a goodbye party for one of the long-standing volunteers here, and so they were especially pumped for their performance. I hope the sound works...
As you can see, Ugandans are pretty great dancers, even at a young age. They can shake it like what:
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